Massive and manic, but with a charmingly traditional side, Seoul is one of our favourite cities – and over the course of a few days here, we’re sure you’ll feel the same. On the very first night you’ll sample its culinary delights at a street-food market and traditional barbecue restaurant, while palaces, temples and folk tradition – plus views from a tower jutting from the top of Seoul’s central mountain – are also on the menu, filling up a jam-packed first full day. The next morning, you’ll head to the “scariest place on Earth” – the DMZ separating the two Koreas, where you might even get the chance to step across the border into North Korea.

Three quarters of South Korea is mountainous, and the country has no fewer than 22 national parks. Most would say that Seoraksan is the most spectacular of the lot, its jumble of granite peaks jutting dramatically from undulating, unspoiled forest. You’ll have a full day to enjoy the park’s various trails, with good options available from easy to difficult – for example, it’s a refreshing, flattish walk to stunning Sinheungsa temple, while getting all the way to lofty Gwongeumsong Fortress will put some definition on your calves (or you can just take the cable car). Mountain air, birdsong, and potentially caves and waterfalls too, this is one day you won’t forget in a hurry.

Fresh from your mountain adventure, you’ll make the journey down Korea’s east coast to Andong, stopping on the way at Naksansa, one of Korea’s only seaside temples. After that it’s a fair ride south, but a real highlight awaits as your reward – the chance to stay in a traditional wooden hanok guesthouse in charming Hahoe Village. Though it looks like a movie set, this is a real, functioning village; you’ll spend the following day in and around this little window into Korea’s feudal era, its clutch of wooden buildings surrounded by rice paddies and gentle mountains. You’ll get some cultural education too, learning how to make traditional hanji paper – a great gift for those back home.

In the morning, it’s a short trip to Gyeongju, Korea’s most important historical city – it was capital of the Kingdom of Silla for almost a thousand years, and you can still feel vibes from its ancient past. After more than a week of haring around Korea, you’ll get a free day in Gyeongju. We suggest renting a bicycle and going for a ride through the countryside nearby, or going selfie crazy after hiring some silken hanbok attire. The next day, you’ll be whisked up into the nearby mountains to see Bulguksa, perhaps Korea’s most beautiful temple, and the Seokguram grotto – both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

After a couple of days of history, it’s back to modern Korea in Busan. Upon arrival, it’s over to the sea for a temple visit, an amble around gorgeous little “Camellia Island”, and some time on Haeundae. This is Korea’s most popular beach, its fine sand picturesquely surrounded by gleaming modern skyscrapers. The next day, it’s a look around the highlights of Busan proper, including the hipster mecca of colourful Gamcheon Culture Village, Jagalchi’s otherworldly fish market, and staggering views from the top of Busan Tower.

After seeing the very best that Korea has to offer, it’s back to Seoul. Though it’s on the opposite side of the country to Busan, high-speed trains make this journey a cinch, and it can be quite thrilling if you’ve never travelled at this speed on land before – up to 300 kilometres per hour, or in other words, one-third the speed of a jet plane. Back in Seoul, you’ll have the chance to learn how to make your own kimchi, and even get to take some of your creation home with you. Kimchi improves with age, so if you make it last, you’ll be able to savour the memories of your trip through South Korea for as long as possible.