A dream cultural adventure in Japan and South Korea
The travellers
The Beckers were clear about one thing: they loved exploring and didn’t want to just sit on a beach and drink cocktails.
Japan had been at the top of their list for a while, but they hadn’t considered South Korea. They didn’t need much convincing. They loved the sound of Seoul's fast-moving trends and Korean islands, perfect for boat and bike explorations.
The trip
The family wanted a decent amount of time in both South Korea and Japan, so we split their time in half.
For a touch of luxury, I booked them into 4* accommodation throughout – with a traditional ryokan inn at the end for a final, full immersion into old Japan. From secret garden palaces, to an onsen theme park – this is the Beckers’ cultural adventure.
Seoul
The family will land in Seoul – a city defined by its ppalli ppalli (quick quick!) culture. It’s a city that never stops moving, with new bars, festivals and restaurants that pop up almost weekly. And yet, there are five traditional palaces in Seoul alone. Gyeongbok Palace is the most famous, and it’s definitely worth stopping by for the changing of the guard, but I suggest visiting Changdeok Palace first. It has a secret garden, originally designed for the women of the palace, with colourful, flicked-roof pavilions and a lotus pond. It’s a hidden pocket of Seoul that not everyone knows exists.
The first evening meal has got to be a true Korean feast – and for me, that’s Korean barbecue. Grilled meat takes centre stage (or table), with seemingly endless banchan side dishes. A top Korean drinking tip: let other people refill your glass, it’s good manners.
Jeju
Jeju erupted from the sea over a million years ago, beginning life as an underwater volcano.
Today, it’s a craggy, mountainous place, with epic hiking. Hallasan is the tallest peak in Korea and Jusangjeolli Cliff is Jeju’s answer to Northern Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway, made up of honeycomb-like pillars of columnar basalt rock. For a family that loves dramatic landscapes and where outdoor hikes are a necessity, Jeju delivers.
I recommend hopping on a ferry around Udo island, a smaller, neighbouring island to Jeju. I made a stop here on my last trip, and where the ground is flat (and here, much of it is), it’s my new favourite place to cycle through the countryside.
Busan
Back on mainland Korea, the coastal city of Busan is a natural next stop, known as South Korea’s second city.
Jagalchi Fish Market is one of Korea’s biggest and most energetic markets - it’s a really local experience, where you can try raw fish, clams, or the charcoal-grilled catch of the day. It's places like this that having an Insider guide is so useful - they'll help you out when it comes to choosing what to eat!
A bus ride down the coast, you’ll find Gamcheon Cultural Village: a colourful collection of peach, cobalt blue, pink, yellow and turquoise buildings overlooking the sea. It’s a great place to spend an afternoon, taking photos, sipping coffee and hunting down street murals. Catching sunset on Haeundae Beach with a convenience store beer is one of the most Korean things you can do.
Tokyo
Most travellers start their Japan adventure in Tokyo – but not everyone stays in Ryogoku. It has a more local Tokyo ‘neighbourhood’ feel, but with a subway stop for speedy connections with the rest of the city. Known as the home of sumo, this area is charactersied by its sumo stables, sumo-sized clothing stores and chanko nabe (hot pot) restaurants – a delicious, protein-rich dish favoured by training wrestlers.
Two nights in Tokyo may give a taste of the city, but to get a feel for its sheer scale, I’ve booked a nighttime slot at Tokyo Skytree, for lit up, panoramic views.
Kyoto
Kyoto, with over 1600 temples and 400 shrines, is the historic, cultural centre of Japan – and the country’s original capital.
For something that feels quintessentially Japanese, I recommend a tea ceremony on the first day. With tatami mat flooring and a very serene atmosphere, it’s the perfect antidote to the fast pace of Tokyo.
Fushimi Inari is a popular spot for good reason – it has not one, not two, but thousands of torii gates. It’s visually striking, but it can get really busy during the day. Visiting just before the sun goes down, at golden hour, and you’ll find it’s much quieter. The light can be really beautiful and to me, it’s a lot more special.
Hakone
Hakone is the grand finale of this trip – time to hit the hot springs.
By day, Hakone is a fantastic place to explore. Visit the open-air art museum, ride the railway funicular for prime mountainside views, or board the pirate ship that takes you across Lake Ashi (with a chance to spot Mount Fuji).
As the evening draws in, there’s no better place to be than an onsen. The Beckers are staying at Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu. Every room has its own, private, hot spring bath on the balcony (rotenburo), but there are communal onsen baths too. There’s also an infinity onsen pool on the roof.
Just across the road is Yunessun – an onsen theme park (with slides). There are 23 baths to choose from – some in which you can wear swimming costumes, others you can literally bathe in wine.
That’s the beauty of Japan: there’s always something that takes you by surprise...
Meet Grant
