Ranthambore was the historic hunting ground of the maharajas of Jaipur, but it’s been protected as a wildlife reserve since the 1970s. Of course, this being Rajasthan, it also has a thousand-year-old fort, which looks out over 1,300 sq km of craggy outcrops, grassy meadows, crocodile-filled lakes and scrubby forests of dhok, banyan, neem and pipal. Beneath it, ruined mosques and cenotaphs lie tangled in the bush, while safari Jeeps crawl through the landscape like exotic bugs, their passengers on the lookout of Indian flying foxes, striped hyenas, langurs, jungle cats, sloth bears, and of course the elusive tiger.

Though Bengal tigers are still critically endangered, the population in Ranthambore grew from 25 in 2005 to an estimated 88 in 2023, reflecting a heartening reversal of fortunes for India’s emblematic big cat — and an increased (but by no means guaranteed) chance of spotting one yourself. On a recent visit, we saw a mother with her cubs, and watched an adult tiger kill a spotted deer right in front of us: real heart-stopping stuff.

Ranthambore really is beautiful and its tiger sightings can be spectacular, but it’s a case of being prepared for what comes with it. Safari tours here are rambunctious to say the least, with drivers and tourists seemingly trying to out-yell each other, even when there’s wildlife around. If you spot tigers, it’s worth it — but if you don’t, it can be a rotten experience. Still, the jungle camps here are really world-class, so you can at least be sure of a luxurious place to relax at the end of the day.

If you’re after a more secluded safari experience, you’ll need to venture beyond Rajasthan. Kanha, Panna and (most isolated of all) Satpura, all in Madhya Pradesh, are our favourites.