The rhythm of life here revolves around the water. Children play in it, people wash their pots, pans and clothes in it, fishermen make their livings from it. Your dinner might have been swimming in it that very afternoon. Children go to school by ferry, overloaded longtail boats putter along canals, and little wooden boats bob at the end of private jetties. There are no cars or trucks here, only boats, and the locals are proud to tell you that they only check the time when they need to catch one.

It seems idyllic — and in many ways, it is. People here are very proud of living close to nature, and every day here brings scenes out of a picture book. Kids climbing trees to jump into the water, a woman weaving a coir rope from coconut fibres, a boatmaker hammering away at a traditional vallam. Meals of coconut-infused curry are served on banana leaves in gardens full of palm trees and spices. Locals spill out of toddy shops, enjoying a cup of sweet palm wine as the sunset reflects on the water. The scenes are timeless in a way, yet ever-changing and unpredictable. You can never tell what you’ll see next, or who you’ll meet.

The ‘classic’ backwaters experience (or so guidebooks would have you believe) is to take a tour on a houseboat, or kettuvallam. These converted, thatched-roof barges are picturesque and can be quite luxurious, but don’t mistake them for an authentic slice of backwater life. They were launched in the 1990s specifically for tourists, and today there are so many of them plying such a small section of the backwaters that you’re never far from the next floating hotel.

An alternative is to stay at one of the region’s waterside resorts, where you can head out in kayaks, on stand-up paddleboards, or on a sunset cruise to get beyond where the houseboats can go, into the narrower waterways and less visited areas.

Alleppey and Kumarakom, on Vembanad Lake, are the most popular starting points for backwater tourism, which means you’ll have endless options for activities, food and accommodation — but you won’t get that sense of escape. Head further north to Kannur or Neeleshwar and there may be much less infrastructure, but it’s a far more secluded experience.