Good things come in small packages — and that’s certainly true of Bako National Park. Covering a mere 27 sq km at the tip of the Muara Tebas Peninsula, this little pocket of wilderness encompasses mangroves, rainforest, kerangas heath and padang scrub, all only accessible by boat along the coast of the South China Sea. Exploring it couldn’t be easier: look out for proboscis monkeys as you hike along trails past massive tropical trees, follow a boardwalk through mangrove swamp to the beach, then watch as mudskippers and blue fiddler crabs come out to feed at low tide. It may feel like deepest, darkest Borneo, but you’ll be back in the city in time for a street-food for dinner in the evening.

Borneo’s rainforests may get top billing, but its subterranean world is the real frontier of human exploration. Over the next two days, visit the longest underground passage in the world, watch Deer Cave’s nightly exodus of over two million bats, see the spectacular illuminated “King’s Room” at Wind Cave, and swim in a crystal-clear pool outside Clearwater Cave. In between your subterranean adventures, you’ll hike along former headhunters’ trails through the rainforest, cruise on the Terikan and Medalam Rivers, and spend the night with the Iban tribe in a traditional longhouse. This is one of the most exciting caving destinations in the world, and it’s just waiting to be discovered.

Kota Kinabalu is the staging point for your next adventure: an exhilarating rafting trip on the rapids of the Padas River. The city itself may not be pretty (it was completely destroyed in WWII) but beauty isn’t the only virtue: you only need to try the amazing seafood to appreciate that. Don’t get too carried away at the night food markets, because it’s a super-early start for the rattletrap train ride into the heart of the countryside tomorrow. There, you’ll gear up and hit the rapids — remembering to take a moment to soak up the magnificent rainforest scenery if you can! After a swim and a picnic, it’s back to the city to make the most of the city’s foodie scene on the seafront promenade.

You’ve had your introduction to Borneo’s natural wonders — now it’s time to learn a little more about its rich indigenous culture. In this little-visited corner of Borneo, you’ll stay in jungle camps and local guesthouses, explore the countryside, and get to know the Murut: a tribe of hunter-gatherers who are harnessing ecotourism to support and preserve their traditional culture. Travelling by a combination of hiking, 4x4 and wooden boat, visit the spectacular Pungiton Caves, take a tour of a community-run eco farm, and enjoy an evening of traditional Murut food, wine and dancing. Luckily, today the Murut are better known for hospitality than headhunting!

After another chance to fuel up on your favourite street-food treats in Kota Kinabalu, your next stop is Kinabalu National Park, home of the tallest mountain in Southeast Asia. Towering over 4,000 metres above the rainforest below, it’s a challenging but immensely rewarding trek to the top, starting in the tropical lowlands and passing through misty mountain forests and alpine scrub before the final, treeless stretch up to the peak. Spending the night at a mountain hut will allow you to set off before dawn on the second day, summiting just in time for sunrise. With views as far as the Philippines in the distance, it's an unforgettable experience.

Although we’d love to fly you straight home from the top of Mount Kinabalu, logistics demand that you return to the city a third time for your final night in Borneo. By now you’ll have a pretty good idea of your favourite spots, and should have no difficulty celebrating your successful Kinabalu climb with some delicious food and some well-earned beers this evening. If you’re interested in colonial history you can seek out the last remnants of the British era, and if you love a sunset, head to the deck at the top of Signal Hill Observatory. It’s no Mount Kinabalu, but its views across the city to Gaya Island and the Tunku Rahman Marine Park are stunning.