Goa remained a Portuguese enclave long after Independence, an unbroken line of colonial rule stretching from 1510 until India wrested back power in 1961. This was the decade of the hippie trail, which saw disaffected Westerners traipse across Asia, through Istanbul, Tehran and Kabul to Bangkok or Kathmandu. Goa, with its idyllic beaches and low-cost, laid-back way of life, was another popular terminus, and it soon developed its own bohemian counterculture alongside the traditional lifestyles of the islanders.

Like many a backpacker’s paradise, Goa is now reckoning with its popularity. Though its hippie roots are still evident, the cultural landscape today includes substantially more bling. Parts of the coastline have become enclaves for mega-rich Mumbaikars and Bollywood stars, while other stretches can be overrun with tourists and hotel chains. Giant beach parties, once wreathed in chillum smoke and soundtracked by psychedelic rock music, now pump out landfill pop until the wee hours.

That said, North Goa is a whole lot of fun. There are still plenty of lovely and unspoiled beaches (Mandrem and Ashwem, for starters) — and it’s head-and-shoulders better than South Goa if you’re interested in Portuguese heritage (beginning with Old Goa and Panjim). The shopping is great, too: Arpora has a fun night market with fire shows, coconut-shell jewelry and Indian pop art, and at Anjuna you can pick up everything from trance party gear to sandalwood.

Goan cuisine is a highlight of any visit, wherever you stay, but North Goa’s restaurant scene beats South Goa out of the park, with everything from tiki-style beach shacks to upmarket sushi bars and luxury dining.