Our guide to Thailand's top places, plus our lesser-known favourites

Before it was razed to the ground by the Burmese in 1767, Ayutthaya had a million inhabitants and was one of the biggest cities in the world. Enthusiastically absorbing influences from across Europe and Asia, its cosmopolitan roots stretch as far as Japan, Arabia, Portugal and Italy.

Bangkok is an assault on the senses. Clouds of aromatic steam battle with exhaust fumes, neon signs blink jarringly alongside confection-like temples, and 30-degree heat and humidity heightens the sensation that you’re simmering in a heady, spice-laden stew.

In contrast to the mile-a-minute chaos of Bangkok, Chiang Mai is a breath of fresh air. Here, leafy boulevards and European architecture survive alongside temples dating back to the twelfth century.

More than just a base for excursions into the northern hills or river cruises down the Mekong to Luang Prabang (though it’s that too), Chiang Rai is Thailand’s unofficial capital of offbeat travel.

Three hours’ drive from Bangkok, in a sleepy, riverside town surrounded by jungle, is the site of one of the most traumatic periods in Thai history. This is Kanchanaburi, home of the real-life Bridge on the River Kwai.

Khao Lak’s beaches are straight out of central casting: pearlescent white sand, deep blue skies, and rustling palm trees leaning out towards glittering, turquoise seas.

Khao Sok National Park is the place to stay at a rafthouse lodge, to kayak on Thailand’s most beautiful lake, to follow your nose to metre-wide “corpse flowers”, and trek past whispering bamboo groves and hooting gibbons to remote wildlife sanctuaries.

It’s the third largest island in Thailand, which means there’s plenty of beach to go around, but also miles of jungle to explore – perfect for half a day’s hike, with a waterfall (or eight) to cool off in.

It’s one of the bigger islands, but it is also one of the quietest – that little bit further from the mainland meaning fewer make the journey. But, for that extra slice of serene life, it’s well worth taking the speedboat from mainland port Laem Sok.

Sandwiched between party-happy Ko Phi-Phi and laid-back Krabi, Ko Lanta is a tiny little drop of beach-fringed greenery in the middle of Thailand’s famous turquoise seas. If you’re looking for a low-key island retreat, this is it.

Ko Lipe is a favourite among backpackers and Thai locals, with many repeat visitors, and it’s clear to see why. As part of the Mu Ko Tarutao National Marine Park, its land is fiercely protected, and naturally beautiful.

If you’re looking to get more for your money, Ko Mak is somewhere you can afford to treat yourself – the hotels are generally pleasant three-star quality, but, for the price of a budget room in a chain hotel on Phuket.