Since food is one of the main reasons why people visit South Korea, what better way to spend your first evening here than trying some of its best cuisine, at two of Seoul’s most atmospheric places to eat? Your evening food tour starts with a visit to a typically raucous Korean barbecue house, where the marinated meat is grilled in front of you at the table, and served with plenty of tasty banchan side dishes. Don’t overeat, however tempted you are, since there’s a stop for traditional rice cakes on the way to Gwangjang Market, a superbly atmospheric street-food paradise where your camera and tastebuds will be competing for attention.

In the morning, you’ll head out for a half-day tour around some of Seoul’s best historical and cultural sights. First stop is Gyeongbokgung, the grandest of the city’s five palaces, boasting a vibe harking back to the days of dynasty. Just across the palace’s eastern wall is Bukchon Hanok Village, a distinctively low-rise slice of Seoul – it’s one of the only places in the city where traditional wooden housing has been retained, and its alleyways are impossibly charming. You’re not done yet – the tour concludes with a visit to beautiful Jogyesa, Seoul’s most important Buddhist temple, whose colourfully-painted eaves look particularly striking against their backdrop of modern skyscrapers.

The heavily fortified Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) separates North and South Korea from east to west. Razor wire, land mines and plenty of weaponry make this a jaws-on-the-floor place where soldiers from the two sides stare at each other down at close range. This is no show – the two Koreas are still technically at war and the soldiers’ weapons are real. But it’s safe to visit, so long as you obey the rules laid out in your US Army briefing, which is in itself kind of exciting... just keep your fingers crossed that war isn’t declared while you’re there.

On your final full day, it’s down to Suwon, a satellite city of Seoul. The city’s fortress, Hwaseong, is one of the most popular UNESCO World Heritage sites in the country, and a walk along its undulating walls will give you majestic views of pine trees, parkland and a jumble of modern tower blocks. After trying your hand at traditional archery, it’ll be time for a trip to the Korean Folk Village – one small step outside Suwon, but in some ways a giant leap back in time to the Joseon period. Here, you'll wander recreated buildings, see a traditional music and dance performance, and soak up centuries-old elements of Korean folk culture.