Welcome to the “Big Mango”, where canals wind between creaking teakwood verandas and glittering, jewel-encrusted spires jut up between skyscrapers. It’s a city of grand palaces and even grander temples, but sometimes the most memorable experiences are those that occur between the sights, as you mingle with commuters on the Skytrain, wander between groups of people practising t’ai chi or aerobics in the park, or visit orchid gardens and fruit plantations along the banks of the khlongs. Bangkok might seem intimidating at first glance, but the Thais are crazy about kids — and you’ll find that even the frenetic, traffic-choked buzz of the city softens to accommodate families.

As the home of the real-life Bridge on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi is the site of some of Thailand’s most traumatic history — but there’s much more to it than that. If your kids aren’t into war stories, don’t worry — there’s still stunning natural scenery, epic train rides, temples where you can receive blessings from the local monks, and a laid-back, tropical vibe that’s lightyears from Bangkok’s non-stop hustle. Stop in on the way over to eat boat noodles and barter over trinkets at a fun (but mega-touristy) floating market — then refresh yourself with a swim in the limpid pools beneath seven-tiered Erawan Waterfall. This is rural Thailand at its finest.

With its crumbling UNESCO ruins sprinkled between street-food stalls, resort hotels and restaurants worthy of Architectural Digest, Ayutthaya is the place to see historical and contemporary Thailand living side-by-side. Grab a candyfloss roti (spun sugar in wrapped in a sweet crepe) and explore, cycling through local villages and Muslim communities, stopping at temples beside tamarind-fringed ponds, and learning how Ayutthayan culture grew out of influences from places as far-flung as India, Persia, Japan and Europe. Then, board a converted 1940s rice barge to have dinner and spend the night on the “River of Kings”.

If you have early risers in your family, get up with the sun to attend morning alms at a local temple — then it’s time to make the journey to Chiang Mai. One of the most popular destinations in Thailand, Chiang Mai is a leafy, laid-back city where trendy art galleries coexist with centuries-old temples, and the hills are filled with jungle hikes and hilltribe villages. Spend a day at nearby Baan Kang Wat, a village where coffee shops and smoothie places jostle with all manner of handicraft workshops, then head back to the city to search the sois (alleyways) for something delicious for dinner. Chiang Mai renowned for its amazing cuisine, so you won’t have to look far.

Some of Chiang Mai’s most beguiling attractions lie outside the city limits, and it’s time to start exploring them. Begin with an alms ceremony at the foot of Doi Suthep Mountain, then climb the 309 steps of the golden naga staircase to the golden pagodas and stunning views at its summit. At moss-covered, forest-cloaked Wat Umong, explore mysterious underground tunnels built by a “mad monk”, then receive a blessing — and all before breakfast! After, it’s time to head to Lisu Lodge, where your local guide will take introduce you to Lisu culture, perhaps even taking you to meet the local shaman. Then, it’s back to Chiang Mai city for a final day of exploration during your Thailand holiday.

You’ve experienced central Thailand and the mountainous north, now it’s time to see what the beautiful south has to offer. Your home for the next few days will be close to one of the most spectacular lakes in Southeast Asia: Cheow Lan. Though its stunning karsts look like something out of Jurassic Park, Cheow Lan has actually only been here since the early 80s, when the valley was flooded to create a reservoir. Here, you’ll stay in one of 17 rafthouse lodges surrounded by 5,000 sq km of virgin rainforest, making boat trips and treks, swimming in pools, exploring caves, cycling and canoeing beneath trailing vines and strangler figs.