Deep in the mountains on Taiwan’s wilder east coast, the sheer-cliffed Taroko Gorge is one of only three naturally formed marble canyons in the world. The national park here has some of the most dramatic scenery in all of Taiwan, with high white canyon walls plunging into the teal waters below.

This side of the island has seen far less development than the west, shaped by its rocky coastline and distance from mainland Asia. Settlers from China didn’t even arrive until the 1800s. Even today, the nearest city of Hualien has the largest percentage Indigenous population of any city in Taiwan. It is, therefore, a top spot to taste traditional food. The Chongquing Market has an aisle of shops dedicated solely to Indigenous vendors. If you’re a train lover, make a stop at the Hualien Railway Culture Park and its restored station buildings. You can even see one of the old steam locomotives that once plied the east coast between here and Taitung.

Visitor numbers have fallen since the 2024 earthquake, but the region is re-opening. Our guides know the roads, trails and viewpoints that are back in use – and are still well worth the journey.

Taroko Gorge and Hualien are for those who seek the wilder side of travel – or perhaps simply want to try some fried spring onion pancakes.