Located just south of the Tropic of Cancer, Kaohsiung is one of the sunniest cities in Taiwan. The third largest city by population, this seaside burg is still an industrial and shipping powerhouse, but we love it for its burgeoning art scene, kitschy and cool Buddhist architecture, and, as is often the case in Taiwan, its food.

To get a feel for Kaohsiung, head to the harbor in the early evening and follow the waterfront through the redeveloped Pier 2 Art Center for street art, galleries, shopping, and a sunset view of downtown. Here, you’ll wander across the Great Harbor Bridge, with its tall mast harking back to Kaohsiung’s shipbuilding past. Spaced among the shops and stalls are abstract murals, statue figures locked into their phones, and even a life size Transformer, all interspersed among restored and repurposed historic warehouses.

Architecture lovers should make time to see the sinuous curves of Weiwuying, the National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts. Dutch architect Francine Houben designed the gentle concrete shapes inspired by a banyan tree grove. It’s the world’s largest multi-use performing arts venue, hosting opera, concerts, plays, recitals and even has an outdoor theater.

But perhaps Kaohsiung’s most evident landmark is the twin, seven story tall Dragon and Tiger Pagoda built over Lotus Lake. It’s bold, bonkers 1970s Buddhist architecture at its best. Climb up for views over the water, peek inside, or just take the photo you came for. Either way, you’ll remember it.

Of course, it wouldn’t be Taiwan’s “second city” without some of the best food going. Out on Cijin Island past the harbor, you have to try their local special snack – sweet, chilled tomato slices dipped in sugar, ginger, and soy sauce. You may never be able to eat a simple tomato salad again.