What makes Jaisalmer special is that, uniquely among India’s forts, it’s a living, working place. It has stood here since the 12th century, and you can still see piles of rocks stacked atop the ramparts, ready to be pushed onto advancing enemies. Things have changed since its days as a medieval caravan center – enter souvenir shops and TripAdvisor ratings – but not that much. The raucous market atmosphere, the camel-leather bags and silver jewelry, the spicy lentils and goat meat thalis: Jaisalmer’s Silk Road roots are alive and well.

Clustering around the foot of the fort is Jaisalmer old town, built from the same honey-hued sandstone, as if all other colors except desert-gold and sky-blue have been drained out of the landscape. This is where you’ll find Jaisalmer’s havelis. Sandstone merchant houses built in the 18th and 19th centuries, they’re like little Petra-esque palaces – properly stunning.

Jaisalmer is popular with tourists, but it’s not hard to step off the tour bus circuit. Our perfect visit takes in the outskirts of the city and the desert beyond: a land of camel herders, qawwali singers, ruined ghost towns and palm-fringed oases.