Set 1,400-2,600 metres above sea level along Taiwan’s central mountain spine, the trails of the Alishan Forest Recreation Area wind through groves of towering, centuries-old cypress, past mossy trunks and fern-lined boardwalks that stay cool even on bright days.

Most people come here to soak up Taiwan’s great outdoors: a good walk, a quiet hour of forest bathing, and air that feels noticeably cleaner up here. But Alishan hasn’t always been a place for leisure. It was once home to the Indigenous Tsou people, then became a major logging area under Japanese rule. These days the trees are protected, and the same narrow-gauge railway that once hauled timber now carries visitors chasing early-morning views from the Zhushan Sunrise Observation Deck. On the right morning, you’ll be above the cloud layer, watching the morning sun roll in. It’s an early start, but it earns its reputation as one of Taiwan’s highlights (excuse the pun).