This stretch of coast between Colombo and Galle has a long history as a beach retreat. The Portuguese first built a small fort on the estuary here in the 17th century, which the British later turned into a rest house for civil servants. Since then, the area has continued to draw in leisure-seeking travellers, somehow retaining its sleepy charm. While it’s fairly developed here, the beach isn’t crowded with a throng of bars and restaurants – most of the hotels are tucked discreetly back into the trees. This may be why Bentota’s beaches are known as some of the prettiest on the island, from the most central ‘Golden Mile’, to nearby Moragalla and Ventura.

This is also where Geoffrey Bawa, the lauded Sri Lankan architect, built his country home, Lunuganga Country Estate. You can visit this beautifully conserved artist’s retreat, as well as nearby Brief Garden, designed and created by his older brother, Bevis Bawa. With the river running into the sea, there’s plenty of water-based activities, like parasailing, kayaking and surfing. A boat trip to Kothduwa Temple, an ancient Buddhist temple built onto a tiny island, is a tranquil, spiritual escape. And if you’re looking for a little more excitement, you can wander through local markets, spot crabs, kingfishers and gigantic monitor lizards on river boat safaris, or even take a trip down the coast to Galle Fort. But there’s no need to fill your days – just let the slow beat of Bentota’s drum lull you into the tranquility for which its long been known.