Pilgrims flock here during festival season for its clutch of celebrated Shiva temples, but tourists have been slow on the uptake, which makes for a gloriously easygoing, hassle-free atmosphere.

Though it’s now a sleepy, agricultural market town, Maheshwar has a history stretching back almost as far as history goes — it’s thought to be the site of the ancient city of Mahishmati, mentioned in the Ramyana (one of India's great epics). Much later, the whole region came under the control of the famous Mughal emperor, Akbar, who left a legacy of mosques, palaces, and forts. More than any of this, however, Maheshwar has been shaped by one woman: the Maratha queen Ahilyabai Holkar.

Ahilyabai’s father-in-law was a former peasant who rose through the ranks of the Maratha state to become the de facto ruler of Indore. After his death in 1766, Ahilyabai took over, presiding over nearly 30 years of peace and prosperity in the region. She chose Maheshwar as her capital, building her palaces within the Mughal fort walls, inaugurating temples along the river, and invigorating the local handloom industry by bringing in artisans from Mandu and Surat. She’s still a beloved figure, not just in Maheshwar but across India, and she’s memorialised in movies, TV dramas, and the names of airports, universities and hospitals.

Ahilyabai's descendants still live in the Fort today, and it’s now one of the most magical heritage hotels in India. Richard Holkar is the current heir, and staying at his home is like visiting the quirky country estate of an English peer. The palace has been restored beautifully, with shady courtyards, kitchen gardens, and a swimming pool. It’s the most wonderful place to relax for a few days, and it’s all within steps of the bathing ghats, where children play in the water, groups of teenagers take selfies, and pilgrims light candles on the steps before immersing themselves in the Narmada.

Maheshwar is packed with stories, and the surrounding region has no end of amazing day trips if you can tear yourself away from the effortless comfort of the fort. The busy pilgrimage site of Omkareshwar, the deserted ruins of Mandu with its beautiful baobab trees, pavilions built by medieval sultans for golden-voiced shepherdesses, and palaces with sweet-scented water channels once belonging to Mughal governors. However many days you have here, you’ll want more.

There’s only one small negative (for some): under the present administration, Ahilya cannot serve alcohol — but for most guests, the setting, food, and hospitality more than make up for it.