Part of what makes Ahmedabad such a pleasure to visit (and why it tops so many quality of life polls) is the attitude of the Ahmedabadis. ‘Chaalse, bhaavse, faavse’ is the local phrase. Translating as something like ‘anything works for me’, it’s illustrative of a deep-rooted, laid-back philosophy. Even the sultans, who took control in 1511, seem to have taken an uncharacteristically live-and-let-live approach to conquest. Visiting their beautiful mosques today, you’ll see animals and heroes from Hindu myths, inscriptions in Sanskrit, and numerous other details usually absent in Islamic art and architecture.

Ahmedabad is a city of two very distinct halves. On one side of the river is the old town, where dwellings are packed into ‘pols’: dense blocks of traditional houses between tiny, winding alleyways and chocka-block markets. It’s hectic and buzzy, but never pushy. Tourists are still a novelty, so you might be called over for a chat and a selfie, but it’s a far cry from the wheeling and dealing of Jaipur or Agra.

Cross the river and it’s a totally different atmosphere – like someone’s opened a window to let in the breeze. This is Ahmedabad’s new town, home of state-of-the-art science museums, lakeside walks, leafy gardens, and one of the best textile museums in the world (tours are seriously in-depth – only die-hard cloth fanciers need apply).

It gets more peaceful still at Gandhi’s ashram, which provides a fresh perspective on the Indian story, and there are some stonking World Heritage sites (including stepwells, sun temples and Indus Valley ruins) within easy day-trip reach.

This is all to say, we love Ahmedabad as an entry point to India. Where Delhi can overwhelm you – and not always in a good way – it’s smaller, easier, more manageable: the perfect introduction.