Brihadishvara Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site at the heart of Tanjore, is perhaps the finest example of Chola architecture still standing. Unlike the vividly painted gopurams common to most temples in South India, the intricate granite carvings of Brihadishvara (simply ‘Big Temple’ to the locals) have been left bare, so that the whole temple glows terracotta in the afternoon sun.

Visit on a Sunday and it’s clear that this is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Tamil Nadu. People travel from miles around to be there, all dressed in their Sunday best, to buy flowers and offerings at the temple entrance, receive blessings from the priest, and chat to friends and foreigners alike. It’s a wonderfully friendly atmosphere.

Tanjore isn’t packed with sights in the traditional sense, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty to see. You might pop into the palace museum to see its library, which contains tens of thousands of Sanskrit and Tamil manuscripts written on palm leaves. We recommend a visit Tanjore Art Village, by the temple, to see bronze-casting and Tanjore painting (now with gold foil, lace and semiprecious stones instead of rubies, emeralds and precious metals). We’ve found it much less pushy than some craft centres in India, where you can be made to feel like you have to buy something.

It’s not big – you might only spend a few hours here – but it’s one of our favourite places in Tamil Nadu, and more than worth an afternoon of your time.