India

Neeleshwar

Neeleshwar takes a bit of time to get to, but the payoff is huge.

Tucked away in the far north of the state, this quiet pocket of lush green forests, meandering backwaters and long, white beaches plays all of Kerala’s greatest hits. It’s doable by road if you’re already up north, but don’t be put off if you’re not. The four-to-five hour train ride from Kochi – chugging through mangroves, paddy fields and little rural towns – can be a highlight in itself.

Neeleshwar is one of the best places in Kerala to get away from the crowds and enjoy some proper, beachside luxury. Though development is scarce, there are two really swanky resorts here where you can relax by palm-fringed pools, be pampered in an ayurvedic spa and eat really top-quality food.

Beyond the resorts, life in Neeleshwar is slow and quiet (by Indian standards anyway). A few small fishing villages are the extent of civilisation, and the backwater scenery – winding through tropical forest and idyllic waterside communities – is easily as lovely as in the south.

If you want to get out and explore, the resorts organise guided excursions into the countryside, taking you by boat through mangrove forests and paddy fields, or on foot into the forests and villages of the Western Ghats. Along the coast, meanwhile, are the most beautiful beaches in Kerala, with spindly palms marching along the soft, white sands, separating your thatched-roof villa from the crashing waves of the Arabian Sea.

If we’ve got anything halfway negative to say about Neeleshwar (and we’re really digging deep here) it’s that you can find yourself in a bit of a comfort bubble. If you’re the adventurous type, you won’t be challenged to leave your comfort zone here. But if you want to be coddled and cossetted – and why not? You’re on holiday – this is an absolutely stunning setting in which to do it.