India

Hampi

Hampi is one of those places — like Goa, Kathmandu or Bangkok — that was beloved of hippies and backpackers long before the rest of the world caught on. As a result, there’s a distinctly bohemian, countercultural flavour to its tourism; the lazy, friendly vibe of a place that’s worn-in without being sharp-elbowed or jaded — like a comfortable old shoe.

Perhaps an old shoe isn’t the best metaphor, because Hampi isn’t just comfortable — it’s gorgeous. The big draw here is the ruined city of Vijayanagar, an astonishing, sprawling archaeological site predating all the Mughals and maharajas who dominated Indian history for centuries.

Over 1,600 Vijayanagar structures still exist in Hampi, including elephant stables, a queen’s bathhouse, forts, stepwells, temples, marriage halls and gopura gates. There’s something of Pompeii in the way you can still trace its layout, following wide, pillar-lined streets to brilliantly carved temples and a huge, now-empty marketplace — though at its height, Vijayanagar was far grander than Pompeii ever was. This is where a good guide is imperative: some of the stories of phenomenal wealth and catastrophic decline are almost unbelievable.

People come to Hampi for the ruins (or, increasingly, the excellent rock climbing scene), but it’s the atmosphere that keeps them. Tourism is still small-scale, and village life is slow, with chilled-out cafés, great food, chai shacks and amazing sunset spots. The countryside, meanwhile, is beautiful: Flintstones-style boulders punctuated with palm trees, banana plantations, paddy fields and coconut groves. In other words, it’s a little bit of paradise.

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