We’ll get right out there and say it: Kota Kinabalu’s no beauty queen – but Sabah's biggest city has plenty of charm for those who look. A good place to start is the local markets. KK has garnered something of a reputation for its excellent street food, from curry crab to coconut jam on toast, and the treats on offer at the huge and colourful Filipino Market are seemingly endless. Once you’ve satisfied your cravings, there are all sorts of day trip opportunities on offer — including tea plantation visits, stand-up paddleboarding, countryside cycling, and some of the finest tropical islands in the whole of Southeast Asia.

Sepilok is Malaysian Borneo’s conservation command centre, and its trio of sanctuaries are leading the way when it comes to preserving this island’s precious wildlife. You’ll visit all three of them and learn how they work together, watching rescued orangutans and sun bears on the road to recovery, and taking to the treetops on a canopy walk to spot monkeys and birds. Borneo has already lost half its rainforests – a third within the past three decades – and projects like these are all that stand between the remainder and extinction. It’s a sobering thought, but by supporting the amazing work being done here you get to see these incredible creatures – and be part of the solution.

The rainforest corridor along the banks of the Kinabatangan River might just be the best wildlife-spotting destination in the world. Drift along it in a longtail boat and you could see pygmy elephants splashing in the shallows, massive crocs peering from beneath the water, or gibbons swinging through the trees. In the early morning the skies are filled with birds, and at night wild cattle and deer rustle in the undergrowth. You'll head out different times of day to experience the rainforest in all its guises – with your lodge’s resident naturalist to fill you in on all the fascinating details – then retire you your beautiful, safari-style cabin amid the sounds of the jungle.

Your next stop is a swathe of protected rainforest known for its unique mud volcanoes. These mineral-rich deposits are like catnip for wildlife, and you’ll get to watch the visitors come and go from an observation tower above. Even if you’re unlikely to see big mammals, you may well find their tracks in the mud! What you’re likely to spot in Tabin Wildlife Reserve differs depending on the time of day. Head out in the early morning to look for some of the reserve’s 300 bird species, or after dark to see frogs, sleeping birds and civet cats. It’s all possible, and you’ll have expert nature guides on hand to help you tell the sticks from the stick-insects.

Unlike the second-growth forests of Tabin, the rainforest in Danum Valley has never been logged or otherwise interfered with by humans. Pristine and incalculably ancient, it’s unlike anything you’ve experienced so far. It's a long and bumpy journey to get here, and the vastness of the forest means you’re unlikely to spot anything very rare — but what makes it magical is the atmosphere. What’s more, you’ll be staying at one of the finest lodges in Borneo, with luxurious riverside chalets, delicious food, and top-class nature guides. Head out on a night safari, watch the sunrise from an atmospheric watchtower, and trek to an ancient burial site: this is a rainforest experience like no other.

After your wildlife adventures, you may well be in need of a rest — and you’ll find it on the shores of the South China Sea. Most people don’t realise Borneo has some of the finest beaches in Asia, but here you can expect to find white sands and sparkling seas to rival any in the region. Make the most of this tropical idyll by heading to one of our favourite resorts, where you can recuperate from ten intense days of trekking and travel with a book on the beach, or keep the momentum going with some of the many activities on offer at your hotel. We highly recommend a snorkelling excursion: if you thought Borneo’s rainforests were impressive, just wait until you see its coral reefs!