Field notes: A family trip to Laos and Thailand
Our global head of operations, Tyler, recently returned from an extraordinary family adventure to Thailand and Laos with his wife, two kids, and parents. Having lived in Southeast Asia for three years, and as a self-confessed ‘see how it goes’ traveller at heart, this trip was an opportunity to blend structure with spontaneity: from a two-day journey down the Mekong river to meeting elephants stomping through the jungle and catching frogs with local kids.
Here's how it unfolded...
An introduction to Laotian life - Luang Prabang
We checked into our hotel, Homm Souvannaphoum, a welcoming base with a pool – and were greeted by friendly local staff, who immediately delighted the kids with local sweets and little gifts. Understanding that adjusting to the time difference takes patience, we took our time to ease in – and it was the right choice. Laos has a truly laid-back vibe, and we made very few plans for our first day in Luang Prabang: wandering the market to try khao nom kok (mini coconut pancakes) and khao tom (chewy rice, banana and coconut sweets) and taking in the immense Mekong River against the backdrop of mountains, fading to shadowy violet as dusk settled in.
Years ago, during my first trip to Laos, I’d taken part in the sacred morning tradition of alms giving – offering rice to the saffron-robed monks who walk the streets at dawn. Rising early, I ventured out alone, watching as locals set up their offerings of steamed rice. I didn’t plan a specific place to watch, but it wasn’t long before two locals, seeing my curiosity, beckoned me to join them. We had no common language, but through warm expressions and gestures, I was fast getting reacquainted with the welcoming feeling that makes Laos so special.
The next morning, I returned with my parents, and the day after with my wife and son (my daughter just wanted to sleep in!). Each of us offered our own handful of sticky rice into the monks’ bowls. We all loved the experience - these are some of my favourite pictures of the trip.
First in line to meet the elephants
If there was one thing my kids (and parents) were most excited about, it was meeting elephants. And what better place to get acquainted than the “Land of a Million Elephants”?
A short boat ride across the Mekong took us to MandaLao Elephant Sanctuary – a haven for rescued elephants.
Before meeting them, the team at MandaLao taught us all about the elephants: where they’d been rescued from, how old they were, and what their lives are like now. Then, we boarded a tiny boat to go up the river and meet the gentle giants.
As we approached, we spotted the elephants weaving in and out of the jungle, their mahout carers walking beside them. My kids were just thrilled. First ones out of the boat and 15 strides ahead of the rest of us, they ran ahead with our guide.
Milking buffalo and playing with rabbits
I thought nothing could top the elephant encounter, but my daughter’s highlight was something I hadn’t anticipated: Laos Buffalo Dairy.
On the way back from Kuang Si waterfalls, an hour out from Luang Prabang, we stopped in at this social enterprise, which supports farmers through buffalo leasing, veterinary care, and education. I expected to pop in for half an hour, take a look around, and eat some buffalo ice cream. Instead, we stayed for three hours.
My son loved holding the rabbits, and my daughter eagerly milked a buffalo and then, to my surprise, fed the milk to a patiently waiting cat. They were delighted with the experience. It was a reminder to me that, for children, the magic of travel isn’t always in the grand sights, it’s in the small, unexpected joys.
Where cabin fever could have reigned – but didn’t
Laos roads are full of life, lined with markets, and are a travel experience in their own right. But to me, nothing is better than the slow, scenic journey of travelling via the Mekong River. So, to make our journey from Laos to Thailand, we took the boat, crossing the border into Thailand on the second day.
I went in with my eyes open – three generations cooped up on a boat for two days, with limited space and no screens: cabin fever could reign and frustrations could flare. I needn’t have been worried.
The long boat was just that – very long, to account for the Mekong’s shallow depth, so we had plenty of space to stretch out. The kids made their own fun with simple games, my dad taught them to play cards, and we all spent time relaxing, taking naps, or gazing out at the Mekong River scenery – fringed with jungle, occasional wooden stilt houses, and bathing water buffalo. The slow rhythm of the river worked its magic.
The boat was crewed by one very friendly family. Father and son did the steering and captaining, and the mother kept us topped up with coffee, tea and food. Her homecooked Laotian curries and noodles were some of the best meals we ate on the entire trip – so delicious, my mouth’s watering as I think back...
A small, Hmong riverside community – partying with techno and TikTok
Laos has an incredibly diverse population: with 50 recognised ethnic groups and 160 subgroups. Between Pakbeng and the Thailand border, we met a small Hmong community, based on the riverside. As we were welcomed into their village, I expected a glimpse into rural life. What I didn't expect was a full-blown techno New Year's Day party at 11am.
As we wandered towards the centre of the village, surrounded by free-roaming goats and dogs, a bassline thump grew louder. Teenagers and young adults danced, sipped beers, and filmed TikToks. With an energy at odds with the serene river setting, it was an eyebrow- raising reminder of how modernity reaches even the most remote corners of the world. Laos had moved on since my last visit.
A temple dedicated to tigers – and a quick hospital visit
Disembarking the boat, it felt good to be back in Thailand.
Our first stop in Chiang Rai was the magnificent Blue Temple – via a detour to the hospital to tackle my son’s ear infection, where we experienced Thai hospitality in a way I hadn’t expected. Bangkok Hospital in Chiang Rai was spotless: super clean, and better service than I’ve experienced in the US and Japan, even. Antibiotics secured, we headed to the Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten) in good spirits.
By that time of day, the crowds had dispersed, so we took our time – the kids playing in the late afternoon sun, the grownups appreciating the sheer beauty of the architecture, with gold dragons roaring up to the sky in quintessentially Thai style.
There, we learnt that Wat Rong Suea Ten translates not to Blue Temple, but to the Temple of the Dancing Tiger – because tigers roamed the ground almost 100 years ago (a fact that enchanted my children). One of my favorite pictures of the trip is of me and my family, kneeling in front of the massive shining Buddha statue.
A grand finale: glamping with elephants
Our journey ended in Chiang Mai, where we treated ourselves to a stay at The Bush Camp, an African-style glamping experience designed with sustainability in mind. For two days, we immersed ourselves in elephant care: learning how they live, watching them get their morning wash, and even making paper out of elephant dung.
The experience was rustic but luxurious – we had Wi-Fi, hot showers, and a balcony overlooking the Ping River, with distant temples and mountains. As we sipped our traditional mahout coffee and listened to the calls from green peafowl in the distance, it felt like we’d gone back in time.
Tamarind Village hotel, Chiang Mai.
The joy of travelling across generations
I set out expecting adventure, a few hiccups, and the odd jetlag-induced meltdown. I didn’t expect to find myself at a riverside techno party, or for my daughter’s favourite experience to be meeting buffalo. And I certainly didn’t expect a visit to hospital for my son’s ear infection, only to leave raving about Thai medical efficiency.
Travelling with children and older parents didn’t restrict spontaneity – it enhanced it. It opened doors to local interactions we might have otherwise missed, and created memories that will last a lifetime.
A huge thanks to Charlotte, our InsideAsia specialist, for putting the trip together so brilliantly, complete with little touches, like a birthday gift for my son at our Chiang Mai hotel and a local farm stay that became my favourite part of the trip (we’ll be writing a separate piece on that soon!).
My hope? That this experience ignites a lifelong passion for travel in my children, inspiring them to seek out beauty in the unfamiliar, just as it did for me.
About Tyler
Originally from the US, Tyler lived in Southeast Asia for three years, visiting Laos while there, which quickly became another of his favourite countries. Now, 23 years later, living in Japan, he wanted his children and their grandparents to experience Thailand and Laos for themselves, and to understand that truly connecting with a place is about connecting with the people who call that place home.
About Field notes
Field notes are personal snapshots from our team’s travels - whether it be journalists or Inside staff members - it’s real moments, real places, real experiences. They go beyond the guidebooks, capturing the little details that make a destination special: the steam curling from a street-side bun cha noodle stall, the laughter of locals sharing a festival tradition, the hush of a forest temple at dawn. Through firsthand stories and sensory insights, Field notes bring you closer to the heart of a place, just as we experienced it.