While Kalpitiya is known for its quiet beaches, rich wildlife, sleepy fishing villages and water sports, it doesn’t always slot neatly into the typical Sri Lanka itinerary. Fortunately, this has preserved much of its rugged charm, and those who do make the journey are richly rewarded. Donkeys and goats stroll along dirt roads, fishing boats bob along the shore, and dense coconut plantations bursting with birdsong hide away bungalows and boutique eco resorts. Kitesurfers have been flocking here for years for the steady winds and wide lagoons, but it won’t be their secret spot for long.

Just south of Wilpattu National Park, Kalpitiya is at the end of a large peninsula, wrapping around Puttalam Lagoon with the Indian Ocean on the other side. It includes 14 islands scattered around Dutch Bay, as well as its own lagoon system. Kalpitiya also happens to be one of the best places in Sri Lanka to spot dolphins, especially November to March, when spinner dolphins play and perform acrobatics in the waves. Sperm whales are also known to gather here between February and March, so a boat trip should be high on your list if you’re visiting around this time. It may be a four-hour drive from Colombo, but this is the perfect stop if you’re making tracks north up the coast – on your way to Jaffna or Anuradhapura – and offers a true slice of everyday Sri Lankan life.