Sri Lanka is known for leopard safaris, tea terraces and beaches, from the sleepy south coast to the central valleys. But perhaps most unexpected of all is Jaffna and its surrounding northern province.

Renowned for its Tamil heritage, this city is a raw and resonant tapestry of colourful Hindu temples, local markets, spicy food and ancient forts. While you can still see the scars of the region's bloody 26-year civil war on the region’s old buildings, you can also feel the warmth and resilience of its people.

Like Galle Fort, the ancient Jaffna Fort was built by the Portuguese and expanded by the Dutch and later, the British, as a massive trading port. Though many of its historical buildings were damaged during the war, it’s a fascinating place to wander and watch the sunset, with far fewer tourists. Beyond the city, you can hop on a ferry to explore some of the outer islands, like Delft. While it’s not exactly the postcard-perfect island escape, its rugged charm is part of the appeal. Exploring the winding roads, tiny villages and ancient sites feels like a trip back in time. And, of course, you can’t come to Jaffna without visiting Nallur Kandiswamy, a Hindu temple dedicated to the god of love, war and beauty. These gleaming golden temples rising out of the striking red and white striped walls have become a trademark visual for the region, and inside, you’re immediately immersed in the hypnotic purr of incense and chanting. Like the city itself, it’s chaotic, at times overwhelming, but you’ll leave utterly spellbound.